Our day trip to Fuzhong had dredged up some long forgotten memories of our early days here in Taipei, when a trip to less exotic locales, such as markets and back-streets, engendered lots of stares and whispers. We didn't spot another foreigner all day until we re-joined our local railway line. It's a rare event these days as Taipei increasingly attracts Chinese-learning westerners who can revel in the delights of the big modern city without confronting the day-to-day challenges of big brother across the Taiwan Strait.
Our destination was the Lin family mansion and Gardens, a historical site now jammed in the middle of a bustling satellite suburb to the south-west of the city centre. We changed trains to our usual east west line, but went the other way, spending many minutes between stations as the train hurtled through industrial landscape and tunneled under rivers. We emerged and made our way through the aforementioned back alleys until we found where the mansion and grounds should be...alas, a gleaming new supermarket building of Carrefour had usurped yet another corner of their grounds, so we walked round the back till we eventually stumbled upon the entrance.
Cobblestone paths and courtyards abounded, and ornate carvings supported sweeping roof-lines of tiny clay tiles which had been arranged in painstaking detail by local artisans. The sense of calm was palpable as soon as you entered and the artificial lakes brimming with scurrying Koi and potted bonsai commanding attention at every turn all aided the sense of an oasis in the middle of the city. Apparently at one stage, the home commanded views over chequered ricefields to the soaring mountains now ringing Taipei city. It must have been quite inspiring: now, of course, the planting is strategically placed to eliminate the view of encroaching apartment buildings and shops!
We spent many hours walking around and zenning out before making our way back to the MRT station. Before we boarded however, we made a pit-stop at the "Two Cats" cafe (which seemed appropriate for us!), and sat and took in some street theatre as we sipped on our ice coffees. It was HOT today and it was great to have a break, have a debrief and gather our thoughts before challenging the hordes on the two train trip back home.
I'm reading "The Drop" by Michael Connelly and Cassy is reading, "Sin and Syntax" by Constance Hale (isn't she just the life-long learner!!). Photos are a mixed bunch but are from in and around the Lin family mansion. By the way, the "swastika" is not really a swastika and has been used for thousands of years in Asian temples: the Germans plagiarized it!
