Sunday, April 12, 2009








We were wondering if the heat would ever return. Taipei does not usually grip tightly to such a prolonged cold snap so late into the year, why it’s Spring already and we’re usually beginning to swelter and starting to hope that the air conditioner will work again after its long down time. Well change it did this weekend, Saturday quite glorious and today similar but with that real summer bite to the sun and the air a little thick and wet.

We took advantage of the conditions to have an early evening meal in Beitou. I thought it was just a couple of weeks ago that we went, but it was actually over two months! We must have been having fun. The train trip is always good fun moving away from Taipei city and the meal was as good as ever. Cass insists on buying a glass of red wine there, although I must report that I’ve never tasted anything so similar to what I imagine a glass of paint thinner with red dye must be like. She makes little asides during the meal like, “You know, this isn’t too bad after all” or, “It really doesn’t taste too bad with food”. I remain unconvinced…!

Today we were spoilt by two NRL games on the Australia Network, so we thought we have to take advantage of that, as it probably won’t last long. After eating our breakfast with half an eye on one game, we were determined to get out and enjoy the weekend weather. All kitted up we grabbed train easycards and some cash, stowed the camera in my back pocket and headed up the line to Qiyan station. We’d done a reverse loop from here some time ago, so wanted to try it the other way. After navigating our way through a lot of Qiyan backstreets and loading up on water bottles at the last 7/11, we found the tiny staircase that leads up to the trail proper. It feels quite strange ascending beside people’s houses on what seems like their garden path, but quickly we emerged at the top to begin the trail as it pierced the heights of the mountain air above Beitou. It’s a good climb, and in the heat we were both huffing, puffing and sweating profusely by the time we’d reached the first peak. We rationed our water out and did the trail in big sections, rewarding ourselves with a drink in some shade at intervals.

Halfway along the path back to Veteran’s Hospital, where the trail peters out, there is a very interesting temple. Last time we visited, the golden Buddhas were locked away, but this time the rows of goldies as well as a few big white examples were on display. They were quite fascinating to look at, and Cass reckons that my Mum would be pleased that I had some contact with a religious institution and icon on Easter Sunday; even it wasn’t quite the “right” one! It’s a funny thing: being in a Buddhist country the only way we remembered Easter at all was that there were extra games of football on TV. Eventually we reached the top of the main peak, and made our way down the endless steps till we got to the tunnel linking the trail to the hospital. We walked through the grounds and made our way home along the riverbank and dyke. Instead of turning off to go home, we made a detour down to the photo shop on Mingde were I had ordered a photo the week before last. The lady seemed quite relieved that I’d come to collect it, as she was probably wondering how on earth she would contact me again if I didn’t show up! 3 hours out on the hike was a pretty good effort in the heat, so we sat around guilt free in the late afternoon and watched another game of footy.

Photos today are of us halfway up the mountain and the Buddhas at the temple. Cass is also pictured in front of a wattle bush on the trail. This mightn’t seem very interesting to many readers, but aren’t wattles a native of Australia? I want to know how it got to be growing at the top of Yangminshan! Cass is also pictured in front of a café sign advertising “tuna waffles”…some places haven’t quite got it yet….