Our trip was an enchanting mix of the familiar and nostalgic, the clipped efficiency and the vaguely chaotic, with a dash of exotic, exciting and frankly, bizarre, thrown into a travel cocktail of the highest class and a lingering taste sensation!
We book-ended the trip with visits to our flight destination, Fukuoka, a regional bustling hub at the northern tip of our exploration island, Kyushu. I'd been here on many occasions, sometimes as a gateway to Nagasaki to visit Mark and sometimes as a destination in its own right, usually when Mark visited me. When we landed, we shuttled straight to the train station, negotiated the three JR offices (finding our necessary spot on the second go!), transferred our vouchers for the all important five day rail pass, then boarded the limited express train bound for Nagasaki and our reunion with Mark and Himiko.
My Japanese was rusty and clunky but was working well enough: I was determined to use this opportunity to brush up just a little. Cass marveled at the pretty countryside on the two hour train ride, the first of many we'd undertake this week. The coastal bays and inlets as a backdrop against bursting cherry blossom trees as the train rushed by painted an exquisite spring scene: one that would be replicated time and time again as we were variously jettisoned, or gently rocked, around the island.
Nagasaki trains deposit you right in town by the bay and we were able to catch a tram right out front en route to the Forza Hotel at the end of one of the Hama Cross enclosed malls in the hub, just a few blocks from Mark and Himiko's home and school. After we rang him and he almost immediately appeared, we rushed some lunch in as we hadn't eaten since the night before. It was great to see Mark: his ebullient character and hearty laugh were in evidence from minute one, and we fell straight back into that comfortable familiarity that old and lasting friends often have.
We walked around through some areas that I hadn't previously been: Chinatown looked familiar (!) and Glover's Garden was a living jewel, with slithering well-fed carp in ponds, incredible plantings of all manner of flowers and plants and restored churches and "Scottish" residences, all precariously gripping the hillside of one of Nagasaki's many precipitous terraces in the natural amphitheater surrounding the bay. After a fascinating look at the Okunchi displays and vivid descriptions of same from our well informed and invested host, we moved on to the rooftop of the impressive art museum before finally settling down to a couple of sweet Japanese brews at the decadently placed Dejima wharf and its succession of eateries and bars overlooking the setting sun on the bay.
Despite the lulling caress of the sun and breeze and the beers hitting the spot along with a chance to catch up with Mark, we needed to move on to the famous night view from Mt. Inasa via the ropeway. One of the world's top three night views, the cable car up and down as well as the spectacular 360 degree view from the top of the viewing deck was well worth the visit and we were able to get a better perspective on the size and geography of the city. We were to meet Himiko for dinner soon however, so we didn't linger too long before meeting up with her at Asa Izakaya for some local food and of course, a few extra beers! It was great to catch up there before Cass was able to check out the combined home and school of The Class. They really have a wonderful set-up for living as well as the adjunct school facility.
Himiko's mum had prepared the most astonishing "bento" packed lunch for our planned outing the next day. We'd planned on meeting up with M&H and "MC" as mum is affectionately known, for a traditional lunch underneath the fully blooming sakura trees up near Nagasaki East High School. MC is 82 and suffering a few mobility problems, but nonetheless she negotiated a huge set of stairs from the carpark and then bumpy paths leading to the tree-canopied terraces with aplomb. The terraces were humming and bustling, blue plastic tarpaulins designating each family or company saved spot, and all manner of people enjoying the "hanami" as the sakura fell like snow each time a breeze wafted through (hanafubuki). The lunch was an exquisite preparation of special foods designed to be fairly traditional, but taking into account Cassy's "no pig product" stipulation. It must have taken forever to prepare. We loved lazing around on our own blue plastic and soaking up the atmosphere of the falling petals as we consumed the bounteous feast. A stroll at the end of the meal was in order and the sights just went on and on: would we become anesthetized to the allure of this beauty at any point?!
We arranged to meet up later in the evening to visit MC's favourite restaurant, Kiyokawa, at the confluence of the maze of alleys at the start of the snack/bar/late night district that holds sway over the salaryman most evenings. I've been lucky enough to have been the subject of MC's largess before as, promise as she might, I never seem to be capable of wrestling the bill from her! The courses were delicate and taste sensations: Cass and I both declare the tempura fish was the best that we'd ever eaten....fish that is, and considering some of the fish dishes we've eaten, that's a massive call. There were translucent, thin sashimi pieces, delicate tempura and even the "whey" of tofu topped with fish eggs (pictured above). The culmination was the intricately veined wagyu beef triangles that we sizzled to our own taste on individual hot rocks: Gurecki reckoned those cows were swimming in wine and beer to produce such marbling! MC was keen to go to a bar for cocktails after dinner so we eagerly tagged along and cocktails and beers were consumed before we said our goodbyes till next time and flopped into the Hotel Forza for our last night.
Incredibly, this was just the entree to our Kyushu feast: stay tuned for more southern island adventures (and photos) next week. For a sneak peek at the full album, check this out. Thanks Mark, Himiko and MC....what a blast to be hosted by the locals in this beautiful little city!