Monday, October 17, 2016






It never ceases to amaze that families picnic in the shadow of a belching fumarole on the side of a sharply angled mountain, the fumes wafting sulfurous gases into the atmosphere and the plume mushrooming skyward. In some ways it makes a lot of sense: for a mountainside outdoor meal, how much more natural could you ask for?!

The "new" bridge, a replacement for the ridge-hugging road which was slowly washed down the mountainside by decades of other-wordly mists, fogs and rain at the peak of the fumaroles, is in the foreground of this spot. There was a rare break in the weather, as the majority of the time, this area just below the upper peak in the range is blanketed by mist and rain and cloud, even if it is perfect sunshine on either side of the peak a few hundred metres closer to sea level. This sunshine soaked day had even permeated the moors of Yangminshan!

We were reveling in the perfect autumnal day after weeks and weeks of interminable drizzle, and decided to make the pilgrimage across the mountains to the coast. Unfortunately, a large percentage of Taipei's population decided to join us! We packed up the car with boards and beach gear and got on the road about mid-morning, still early enough to beat the weekend sleepyheads who don't get going till about midday onward. Despite this, we locked into a crawl along the switchbacking mountain road and just had to settle in to enjoy the long, slow ride.

When we arrived beachside, there was actually a fun little bank formed, aforementioned glorious sunshine, a light breeze and, the crowd to match! There was a flotilla of longboards lolling out on the narrow take-off zone, but I quickly donned some surfing gear and paddled out, Cass taking up camp on the beach with Nicky, who had just come in from a surf.

Dan was out the back and getting a few, so after a quick chat we got a few more. I managed to break yet another legrope, despite the insipid strength of the waves, yet luckily had a spare in the car. Back in action I managed to get a few more little waves before conditions worsened and I got leaden arms!

Cass was able to have a good chat with Nicky and catch up with her and Dan's comings and goings, and the three kids were all there enjoying the beach life as well. They're a really lovely family and we always enjoy our time with them: it's just that we don't get over to the beach so much these days and they're always there!

A little tired and sun-seared despite a generous slathering of 50+ all over, we decided to head across to Jinshan's super Seven-11! It's housed in a massive building in the middle of a coastal rice paddy, but services a huge volume of traffic which trawls the scenic number two highway. Inside, there are tables and chairs in two sections as well as the outdoor spots. After our purchases we were lucky to snare one of the few remaining tables. We commented that this system surely wouldn't work in most other countries: they totally rely on the public's honesty to take their goods to the checkout first to pay, rather than just moving to a table to eat. The tables are closer to the food than the checkout!

The trip back over the mountain was absolutely beautiful. We purred past roadside stalls all groaning under bountiful piles of mountain sweet potato. The bucket brigade were parked beside the road washing their cars in the crisp mountain runoff (free, of course). The spa hotels were nestled into the foothills with majestic views of the mountains soaring seemingly straight up from the plain, their peaks hidden by cloud drifts gently scrubbing the upper tree-lines. The Calla lilies were dormant and their stalls abandoned at this time of year but we were taken aback by stalled traffic a few hundred meters further up: an impressive, muscular macaque squatted roadside preening himself, oblivious to the traffic chaos which ensued!

What a magnificent day we had! The sublime weather continues today, but unfortunately we're stuck inside our air-conditioned zoo, gazing out longingly at the perfect world beyond the cage. During class, I've rushed down to the doctor to try to get some treatment for a blocked ear canal: I've hardly been able to hear a thing any kid has said today! Some water in the ear from yesterday has refused to come out, and I'm in a disorientating, echoing world: hopefully his drops will fix it. The whole doctor visit was an absolute circus, but I might save that for another day...only in Taiwan!

Photos: as described pretty much!