Monday, October 31, 2016
















There's yet another hidden gem in the vast stretches of re-purposed land in the far eastern districts. It lies quietly embedded in the new hub of the city of Taipei. It had been a number of years since we'd gone this route, as it was a long forgotten playground for us in our early years here. The then new and shining Living Mall had provided all sorts of solitude which has long since been replaced by more modern, gleaming edifices much closer to home.

Taipei's Cultural and Creative Park is an eclectic mix of re-used urban space and incredible new urban shopping structure all blended into a creative and artistic melting pot. There are magnificent lines of old railway workshops and the old Taipei tobacco factory with cavernous spaces within each one that held all manner of design and creative exhibitions. We just scratched the surface and were lucky to catch the dying days of the Taiwan Design Expo which has been going for a few months already. There were amazing design creations by the burgeoning design set of Taipei, everything from pottery to lighting to electric bikes!

Another, equally amazing discovery was the nearby Eslite Spectrum retail hub housed in a soaring wild design of a building almost in the shape of an eagle's wing. It's sweeping forecourt hosted all sorts of entertainment, stalls and exhibits of its own, just tantalizing enough to lure the exploring type inside to another, even more capricious world.

A dazzling display enveloped us upon entry. The vaulted spaces sailed high above us as we gazed in wonder at the assembled shops and areas. The floor plan was almost a leaf shape, tapering away to points at either end of the long, narrow building. The shops were delineated by sweeping walls of glass with eye-catching window displays, or else completely open to allow foot traffic to meander in and out of their assigned space.

A palpable sense of cool and design chic emanated from every area. It felt like there was a hand crafted, fixed gear pushbike display outside every second shop, their store brand emblazoned on thick, rustically tooled and tanned saddlebags. A crafty tang of scent wafted through the air, heavy with leather and incense, essential oils and hand made soaps. The stores, or many of them, not only sold products, but incorporated lessons of some artistic endeavour or other. Painting, woodworking toys, calligraphy and even glass-blowing were on offer. People were engaged and flowing around all the spaces, interacting with the products and salespeople....it was unlike any retail experience we'd ever had. The Eslite company had their signature stamp on the third floor with a giant book haven interspersed with lifestyle hubs filled with yet more interesting, unusual or unique items. At either end of the leaf shapes on each floor were restaurants of differing cuisine with pocket sized cafes dotted along the front glass walls.

I was amazed, when we went down to the basement food court, to see a sign with the word "pie" just peeking out from behind some tables. Not wanting to get my hopes up too much, as we approached we saw more and more evidence of the holy grail: a pie warmer with what looked like the genuine product reared from the crowd and a sign of "Pie Pie: Australian Meat Pies" came into full view. Wow! Excitement was an understatement! I could barely contain myself as the meals were prepared, and each pie came with a serve of mashed potato and vegetables, as well as a sachet of tomato sauce of course. The pastry was delicate and light, hardly a trace of sweetness, and the filling was meaty and rich. There were no vegetarian options so Cass picked the bacon from a mushroom, bacon and chicken number. There was something slightly wrong with the overall sensation, an indeterminate problem: and yes, I'm a connoisseur! Regardless, I'm stoked to say the least!

We completed our day by wandering around the outdoor stalls for a while till, slightly leg weary, we made the long trek to Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall MRT station, then train home, changing lines once half-way. We'd discovered an exciting new playground, one for which we barely scratched the surface and we'll be back soon. We'd had a minor adventure the day before too, going to see "Dr. Strange" at the movies before a familiar dining experience at "The Spice Shop". We had a very full, and slightly exhausting, weekend!

Photos: trusting scooter owners with two brand new helmets, then various shots from in and outside Songshan Creative Park and Eslite "Spectrum". Here's a full version photo album. The video for glassblowing is also here.

Monday, October 24, 2016













We really do quite like our shuffling, little, old, local doctor, Dr. Tseng. The trouble is, when we walk into a gleaming doctor's surgery, everything spic and span, modern and sterilized, appropriate and slick, we get a renewed pang that something is dreadfully wrong with our choice of medical comfort and care in the form of our regular doctor!

I had an ear wax buildup last week, which I suffer from periodically, a problem of narrow ear canals passed on from my grandfather to my mum and onto me. It hasn't been a big deal over the years, but something I've needed to keep an eye on. I got to the point where I was watching my kids ask me questions in class and it was akin to watching a spaghetti western or samurai movie, with the dubbed lips moving, but no sound coming out! A dash mid-morning to the doctor's was essential!

Dr. Tseng's office looks like it's been populated by some stolen, plastic park seats, all odd colours and too many to fit comfortably in the space, along with being welded together and immovable. There are various professional posters all over the walls, scratched over with texta messages from the doc offering his own essential insights into their contents. They are all dog-eared and fading, many peeling off the walls exposing yellowing, rolled up sticky tape rings beneath. The "older" male receptionist wears an off-white nursing style top, initially inspiring some vague confidence before I notice that half of yesterday's lunch appears to be spilled down the front.

Despite the fact that I first went there 15 years ago, he seems unable to locate my file but insists that Cassy's file is mine. I assure him that this person is not me but rather my wife, even though he seems confused, until I point out the character for "woman" which is clearly marked on the front. The paper file is impressively creased and ruffled, criss-crossed and annotated with strange, barely legible hieroglyphics.

Not to be outdone by the chaos and filth out in the reception area, the doc's inner office is almost impossible to describe. There are 1950s era stainless steel machines lurking mustily beneath tottering towers of paper files and folders, dusty packets of bandages and ancient bottles of medicine, along with discarded syringes in an unprotected sharps disposal bucket. The doc actually does have a computer and screen on his desk, and after the failure of the paper file system to discover my existence, he then asked me about all the ailments he'd managed to discover on the screen. Trouble was that, again, he'd called up Cassy's file and insisted, even argued, that these were my prior sicknesses. He took some convincing! In the end he sent me away with some oily ear drops, a tiny stick with some cotton wool wrapped around the end and advice to use a toothpick to poke around in my ear to loosen the wax!

The relief I felt the next day when I bit the bullet and approached a local ear, nose and throat guy was intense. I was quite euphoric when I was ushered into a beautiful clinic area replete with sparkling modern equipment, a masked and gloved doctor with perfect knowledge and an active assistant holding my head steady as the doctor used said equipment to quickly and efficiently alleviate my problem . The experience was so wonderful that I encouraged Cass to go a few days later when she was experiencing a bad sore throat and general malaise. She, in turn, was astounded by the amazing level of service: I think we'd actually got used to the old guy to the extent that we'd forgotten what correct medical service should look like!

Cass wasn't feeling the healthiest this weekend, so we stayed at home except for some forays into the great wide world of shopping, the local supermarket shop at Wellcome being supplemented by a "specialty" run to Carrefour. As pointed out previously, specialty items include mince and yoghurt, along with certain cheeses and a couple of slabs of salmon, among other things. We're not quite there yet!!!

I ventured up the steps and found it very daunting in the midday 34 degree blistering heat with high humidity. It's the first time I've seriously considered not going the entire way up, but I'm happy I kept going: I don't want to set those types of "firsts"! On the way back down, to reward myself, I split from the regular path and followed the ridge-line halfway down the mountain through to the amazing temple full of individually carved religious men. They are all unique and some of the expressions and actions have to be seen to be believed. There are hundreds and hundreds on the temple grounds and I crept through the undergrowth and jumped fences to get shots of some of the more neglected types. It's pretty freaky!

Photos: sights from the steps, the temple and on my way back to pick up the scooter from the top of Section 7. I particularly liked the muscular water buffalo guarding a corner pocket park! Cass is reading Shriver's The Mandibles and telling me where she is up to each night in this frightening dystopian future. For once, I'd actually read a book before her! I'm still on the fascinating Beatles biography by Hunter Davies...gold! Speaking practice with mind maps video here of some of my kids.

Monday, October 17, 2016






It never ceases to amaze that families picnic in the shadow of a belching fumarole on the side of a sharply angled mountain, the fumes wafting sulfurous gases into the atmosphere and the plume mushrooming skyward. In some ways it makes a lot of sense: for a mountainside outdoor meal, how much more natural could you ask for?!

The "new" bridge, a replacement for the ridge-hugging road which was slowly washed down the mountainside by decades of other-wordly mists, fogs and rain at the peak of the fumaroles, is in the foreground of this spot. There was a rare break in the weather, as the majority of the time, this area just below the upper peak in the range is blanketed by mist and rain and cloud, even if it is perfect sunshine on either side of the peak a few hundred metres closer to sea level. This sunshine soaked day had even permeated the moors of Yangminshan!

We were reveling in the perfect autumnal day after weeks and weeks of interminable drizzle, and decided to make the pilgrimage across the mountains to the coast. Unfortunately, a large percentage of Taipei's population decided to join us! We packed up the car with boards and beach gear and got on the road about mid-morning, still early enough to beat the weekend sleepyheads who don't get going till about midday onward. Despite this, we locked into a crawl along the switchbacking mountain road and just had to settle in to enjoy the long, slow ride.

When we arrived beachside, there was actually a fun little bank formed, aforementioned glorious sunshine, a light breeze and, the crowd to match! There was a flotilla of longboards lolling out on the narrow take-off zone, but I quickly donned some surfing gear and paddled out, Cass taking up camp on the beach with Nicky, who had just come in from a surf.

Dan was out the back and getting a few, so after a quick chat we got a few more. I managed to break yet another legrope, despite the insipid strength of the waves, yet luckily had a spare in the car. Back in action I managed to get a few more little waves before conditions worsened and I got leaden arms!

Cass was able to have a good chat with Nicky and catch up with her and Dan's comings and goings, and the three kids were all there enjoying the beach life as well. They're a really lovely family and we always enjoy our time with them: it's just that we don't get over to the beach so much these days and they're always there!

A little tired and sun-seared despite a generous slathering of 50+ all over, we decided to head across to Jinshan's super Seven-11! It's housed in a massive building in the middle of a coastal rice paddy, but services a huge volume of traffic which trawls the scenic number two highway. Inside, there are tables and chairs in two sections as well as the outdoor spots. After our purchases we were lucky to snare one of the few remaining tables. We commented that this system surely wouldn't work in most other countries: they totally rely on the public's honesty to take their goods to the checkout first to pay, rather than just moving to a table to eat. The tables are closer to the food than the checkout!

The trip back over the mountain was absolutely beautiful. We purred past roadside stalls all groaning under bountiful piles of mountain sweet potato. The bucket brigade were parked beside the road washing their cars in the crisp mountain runoff (free, of course). The spa hotels were nestled into the foothills with majestic views of the mountains soaring seemingly straight up from the plain, their peaks hidden by cloud drifts gently scrubbing the upper tree-lines. The Calla lilies were dormant and their stalls abandoned at this time of year but we were taken aback by stalled traffic a few hundred meters further up: an impressive, muscular macaque squatted roadside preening himself, oblivious to the traffic chaos which ensued!

What a magnificent day we had! The sublime weather continues today, but unfortunately we're stuck inside our air-conditioned zoo, gazing out longingly at the perfect world beyond the cage. During class, I've rushed down to the doctor to try to get some treatment for a blocked ear canal: I've hardly been able to hear a thing any kid has said today! Some water in the ear from yesterday has refused to come out, and I'm in a disorientating, echoing world: hopefully his drops will fix it. The whole doctor visit was an absolute circus, but I might save that for another day...only in Taiwan!

Photos: as described pretty much!


Monday, October 10, 2016























It's a fillip for the soul to indulge in yet more time off, but we definitely felt in need of it after our hectic chase round the globe last week. Hot on the heels of our extended weekend back in Australia we were able to luxuriate in the annual "10/10" 4 day weekend this week. After surviving just three days back at work, we were able to look forward to a catch-up of sleep and sanity after a whirlwind of social and entertainment activity!

We each relaxed in our peculiar ways on Thursday, me with some beers and friends and Cass with two furry mates and a bit of French TV! We welcomed the rain back to town on Friday and this time it wasn't a strain: it actually gave us carte blanche to do whatever we liked, as long as it didn't involve going out anywhere! We were able to potter around the house and do bits and pieces at our leisure as well as indulge in some binging on quality TV...oh, it was so decadent!

On Saturday, the skies cleared briefly, at least enough to encourage us to get across to the Shinkong Mitsukoshi complex for a movie, a touch of retail therapy and a long mid-afternoon "lunch". Cass rated "Deepwater Horizon" a B+, mainly getting to this lofty height from the very real tension created in the lead-up to the climactic disaster portrayed. It was literally edge of the seat, nail-biting stuff! The actors were competent and although the characters were a little stereotypical and cut-out, the script played out OK to back up the big effects.

Cass went hunting down in the basement shoe emporium for some replacements for her beloved black and gold Pumas: a sole had been thrown at camp and they were reluctantly hoicked. The variety of colours and brands of shoes was dazzling and confusing, so after a few attempts to break the mold with some New Balances or Nikes, she gravitated back to the Puma section. She hooked up with some real beauties and as a bonus, they were also on a super bargain price special. Flushed with podiatry success, we escalatored to the second floor to continue our love/hate relationship with Chili's. Well, let me explain that: I hate it and Cass loves it! I must admit, however, that this time I did manage to find a suitable meal of half salmon and half chicken, while Cass indulged in her long time favourite Quesadilla Explosion Chicken Salad.

Scootering a quarter way up the western ridgeline of Yangminshan before ditching the bike and hiking the rest of the way was our mission on Sunday. We set out in a misting, annoying little sprinkle which didn't really relent the whole time we were out. Cautiously negotiating the curving narrow road with precipitous drops unhindered by any type of guard rail, we wended our way past boutique mountain housing communities gripping the slopes tightly, through crumbling villages and garish temples, before emerging at various trail-heads leading further into the lush hills.

The start of the trail consisted of less traveled stone steps, much like the steps of our beloved Tienmu Gudao. They rose quickly, and soon we were puffing and blowing as we rose ever upwards into the mist. The steps gave way at intervals to steep mountain concrete paths, carpeted with leaf litter and a sheen of moss, making them quite treacherous to negotiate. Water rushed down narrow irrigation streams and pipes festooned the creeks, tapping into the precious water source as it thundered down the slopes and through the verdant plots. We stopped to admire ingenious little bridges and gates, entries to individual fields secured by metal gates and even living room doors! There were tiny shrines re-built by the local communities and hobby farmers tilling their allotments with rudimentary tools, while some semi-permanent residents huddled away from the damp in ramshackle huts made from all types of begged and borrowed materials.

Aiming ever higher, eventually we emerged from the farming plots to cross the road onto yet another stone staircase. This one led to more trail-heads and butterfly walks, but not before we passed a car-park by another temple and stone picnic setting. We headed along one of the butterfly trails and quickly felt like we'd stepped into a realm way beyond the city. Not a sound was to be heard apart from squelching feet on sodden leaf litter, birds trilling and beeping, and small rustlings in the undergrowth beside the path. A bamboo tunnel appeared and went for hundreds of meters: it really was an amazing thrill to be there all by ourselves...the photos don't really capture the majesty of this ethereal green cathedral.

We could have walked yet further, but we knew we had to retrace our steps eventually and we were already a little leg weary, so we headed back down and away. The slopes and paths were doubly difficult to traverse on the way down as we realized how steep they really were. I went for a couple of near skids, so we pretty much took baby steps all the way down to ensure we didn't go for a sixer! Safely down at road level, we took the scooter back down into Tienmu, stopped for some late lunch baguettes at Lutetia, then headed home. What a great day!

Monday saw yet more chilling time, lots of pottering and relaxing, the weekend providing the perfect bookend to our crazy hectic schedule from the weekend before. My old mate, Gurecki, now firmly ensconced in Nagasaki, sent me two huge tomes in the mail, one of which I've started to read. It's The Beatles biography by Hunter Davies and was originally published in 1968. It's an anniversary edition with chunky, updated forewords and postscripts which are wonderful. The most incredible detail and interviews with all the main characters make it a joy to read. Photos: Cass at Chili's, modelling new shoes, many from our hike, a little dog with wheeled assistance and the beginning of Halloween produce.