Lolling in an ocean of sunshine and catching nature's wave was our modus operandi during nearly every day of the Chinese New Year holiday. In stark contrast to the stormy seas we usually encounter on the good ship "Gong Shi Fa Tsai" during its treacherous crossing sometime in the month of dank, dark February, this year we were almost becalmed and the weather's pacifying caress led us to enjoy our holiday more than many others that have gone before.
After our initial forays into the far south-eastern mountain trails at Elephant Mountain, on which I briefly reported last week, we were presented with day after day of glorious early spring weather. Our plan was to let nature (or our slightly needy feline companions!) be our alarm clock each day, whereupon we'd take our time over breakfast before deciding on a course of action for the day. Cass had made a batch of her signature lemon butter for the week and had even bought be some loaves of white sliced bread upon which to spread it. Filter coffees, slabs of white toast slathered with generous serves of lemon butter...how decadent! (despite our forays into the wild most days and adequate exercise, we both still put on extra weight this week which came as no surprise....back to the rigorous discipline this week!)
We wandered up to Shilin via the back streets we hadn't trodden for years and after a few false starts with shops closed for the holiday, eventually settled in at 1Bite2Go to enjoy a late lunch/early dinner in their funky warehouse space. We wandered around to get a few different supplies before heading back to Tienmu via the Fulin Bridge. By this time, it was dusk and the evening held similar charms to the day for strolling around.
A day trip to Shifen to visit the waterfalls was a highlight midweek. Taking the newly forged number 2 country byway which sluices down off Highway 1 on the way to the north-eastern coast, we burrowed through an endless tunnel and meandered through mountain switchbacks until finally soaring across an impossibly high, wildly engineered bridge to the Pinxi/Shifen turnoff. The crowd was prodigious and after some bumper shuffling for a while, an entrepreneurial shopkeeper ushered us into his yard for a cheap car-park before we made the trek to the falls. The infrastructure was new and grand with a beautiful wide stairway and boardwalk winding through the forest giving tantalizing glimpses of the waterfall as it thundered away across the valley. We emerged to multi-level viewing decks and steps to yet more platforms. Despite the press of humanity, we still felt the power of the chute and the beauty of the pea green water. After wandering back through the ubiquitous snack food and cheap souvenir stalls, we braved a pulsing and trembling (or was that just me?!) suspension bridge before being disgorged on the 106 country road a kilometre or so from our park.
On Thursday, Cass went out to a long lunch with her friend Lisa, where they supped on the delights presented at the trendy local vegetarian spot de jour, Mia Cuccina, which is housed on the bottom commercial area of some flash apartment blocks behind SOGO and across from Carrefour. I met up with Wal for a few beers later that evening down at Alleycat's Pizza and bar and we had fun in this venue that we don't often frequent.
While Cass was out in the day, I decided to unshackle "Blackie" from her underground stable and let her rip into a bit of mountain mayhem. The CNY traffic jams on Yangminshan started as soon as I started heading up into the mountains from Tienmu, even though I'd taken a lesser known back road. Luckily, the scooter was able to buzz along the inside lane with impunity most of the way and after a few more turns and changes, I was soon on my own heading up to the mountain ridges behind Beitou. Famous for its cherry blossom views in spring, the brutal winter meant that they are yet to bud, although some trees were just starting to get a pink mist enveloping the end of their branches. The views up top were as awe inspiring as usual.On the way back, I checked in to the belching fury of the Beitou fumaroles, all puffed up with power, spitting steam and gurgling super-heated water. With the texta colour neon yellow sulphur, the associated pungent aroma and its cordoned off "moonscape" look, it's quite the other-worldly experience.
The healthy wash of the holidays lapped over and around us almost an entire work day before we slowly stated to tread water! Now, a day later, I won't say we're drowning, but the memory of floating around in our decadent infinity pool of days off is waning. Photos are of the various adventures and trips, capped off with a final walk up the steps for a mountain trek around the ridge. I've just finished the second in the Lehane trilogy and have started the new Barry Maitland "Belltree" trilogy for a little break. It's called Crucifixion Creek. Cass is reading a dark comedy from Nick Hornby, A Long Way Down. The video up top is of the Shifen Waterfall. Later access here.
