Monday, November 23, 2015











I've seen photos of old Taipei with squadrons of working pushbikes groaning under produce, piloted by wiry little men and stoic women straining to navigate them in and around the city. Long ago these scenes disappeared, yet we still see some old "Father Time" (or "Mother Time"), every now and then, hauling great weights of produce around the city streets, all lengthy sinew, earthy tan and furrowed brow.

These days of course, a metamorphosis has arrived in the relentlessly growing cycling monster that is "Youbike". Since a total overhaul, an easy-pay system and an amazing growing network of stations, this cheap public resource has seen a contemporary explosion in cycle use, this time not for commerce on the city's streets but for leisure and fitness on the city's burgeoning grid of dedicated bikeways as well as main roads and highways if you dare! ( I did ride one back from Hsin Yi's 101 building early one New Year's Day!)

It's so convenient, cheap and fun, and the bikes are in such plentiful supply that it is possible to make snap decisions to ride at any time. As the breeze stiffened and the sun peeked from behind clouds on Sunday around noon, we did just that: dropped everything, grabbed a hat and sunblock, quickly checked the bike availability via app's electronic map and headed off to a nearby station. Mingde MRT station had heaps of free bikes so we headed down, waved our passes above the scanners and the bikes whispered from their locks and off we pedalled: rivers and canals here we come!

After a hop, skip and jump through some choked streets, we cruised past the impressive new judge's training centre on the riverside, to drop onto the paths beside the water. After navigating below the 10 lane Wen Lin Road, we hooked right to cut along the tributary of the Damshui River all the way to the Beitou interchange. On the way we investigated the photogenic suspension style bridge in the Beitou hinterland. A cycle path had been built up to it recently, so we rode up to find the road completely deserted. Did they let vehicular traffic up here? After just a few scooters passed through in the next couple of minutes I decided the answer was, "No!". Lying on the roadway, setting up the camera on a tiny tripod, then coaxing Cass out for a quick shot seemed like such fun. It was only after we took the shot that we noticed cars coming up the ramp behind us! Good call, Dave!!

After our little heart-starter we turned north west along another tributary, this time hugging the edges of the Guandu nature reserve. We passed quirky little track-side cafes that had sprung up to cater to the new crowd and coffee drinkers relaxed as the passing parade pedaled on. There were paddies of rice bursting with produce on the one side and mangroves and tidal flats stretched away on the other. We passed couples on tandem hire-bikes and the odd geriatrics plugging away, however were passed in turn by Lycra-sheathed pelotons on gleaming steeds of titanium as they purred past us with nary an effort.

As we neared the usually impressive Guandu temple we realized it was completely covered in scaffolding as restorative works are carried out. The little traditional marina gave a pleasant backdrop for a gulp of water and a massage of our slightly aching rear ends: we'd come a long way! Resolving to press on for Damshui and drop the bikes there if possible, we were able to spy yet further mangrove and riverside reserves, all the while getting blinking cameos from the river beyond, replete with all manner of boat and water craft, including windsurfers and jetskis: what on earth is the world coming to?!

After artfully dodging some crazy bikers stopped mid path or walking three abreast up slight inclines, we witnessed some great architecture (see the photo of the basket weaving house!), saw the trains hurtle past from a different side, then eventually stumbled into the vast Damshui riverside park. After checking the app for a drop-off station, we navigated to one just a few hundred metres away, before congratulating ourselves with a strong coffee and a waffle with pistachio gelato at one of the riverside cafes!

Fortified, relaxed and feeling very worthy, we hopped on the MRT for the (surprising long!) journey back home. We even managed to do a quick shop on the walk back home and managed to get enough supplies to last us for our short week. Yes, the Americans have once again come to the party with their Thanksgiving holiday weekend starting this Thursday.....God Bless America!