Tuesday, April 22, 2014










After twelve and a half years here in Taipei and our predilection for exploration in and beyond the city environs most weekends and holidays, it would be feasible to assume that we'd seen just about everything the place has to offer. However, not only has the city completely redesigned itself from the belching hulk it was when we first arrived, but it also continually re-invents and rejuvenates public spaces as demand from the population is ever louder for usable, friendly outside recreational areas.

The aforementioned Youbike system is just one example and, as I've commented, new stations are popping up like wildflowers on a Western Australian desert. The associated bike-ways are expanding and improving, and parks and open spaces are becoming more accessible: therefore, greatly in need of renovation as well.

One such site is Yuanshan Park, which was completely transformed a few years ago from an uninspiring, hot field of concrete with some straggly, tired looking bushes, into a wonderland of vertical gardens and carpets of exotic flowers for the International Floral Festival. In the last 18 months, it has been completely transformed yet again despite Cass and I being completely oblivious to the improvements as they took place a little away from our oft beaten path.

The crumbling soccer stadium had been re-purposed as an exhibition hall for the Floral Festival but had become so popular for other visiting shows that the city realized a need for other services. They have transformed the rear of the stadium (which used to host a skate-park where I broke my wrist!) into a vast indoor/outdoor eating and bar and relaxation area. There is a huge cantilevered roof soaring high above and out, giving an outdoor vibe but still protection from the weather.

Nestled underneath are all manner of al-fresco bars and restaurants and cafes, with trees and water features and wide open spaces sprinkled liberally between them. We went to the Three Lions Bar on Friday night to toast Trevor, a Kiwi who has worked at the school with us for years, but who is moving back to NZ next year. Trev was keen to show off his "find" and we were most impressed with the whole set-up. Prior to drinking at the Three Lions, he'd also taken us to another of his "secret spots": this one a hole-in-the-wall fried chicken joint, which would make Henny Penny blush with the freshness and lip smacking flavour it greeted us with.

Harking back to the outdoor space, one of the most amazing sections of the whole place was the toilet area. There was the biggest two-sided urinal I have ever seen, with walls of plants on either side screening the spot from passing eyes: it felt like a real "back to nature" experience, despite the dull roar of nearby Chung Shan traffic!

Cass and I ventured across to SOGO on Saturday afternoon for what is becoming our trademark "luncheon-dinner", where we combine two meals for the day at an odd hour, mainly to beat the Saturday evening dining crowds. The Thai restaurant at the top of the building has the most delectable roasted eggplant amongst other classic dishes! Of course we combined our trip with a little shopping where we checked out the early summer temptations from Uniqlo. I ended up getting a linen/cotton short sleeved shirt for work as well as two more T-shirts....they are so cheap, it's very hard to go away empty handed. We've read that Uniqlo is opening its first Australian store soon, but that the price point will be higher to match the "Australian consumer expectations"....I'm glad Taipei consumer expectations are so cutthroat!

Cass is struggling away with her latest book club selection, Silent House by Orhan Pamuk, but finds it rather a dirge. I, on the other hand, am delighting in the book Gurecki sent me for my birthday, yet another biography on Charles Manson, "His Life and Times". I have now read four books about this nutter: it's a compelling tale! Photos: painted train, Cassy's class arena, a fat cat(6 kg!), homeless in the underpass still have etiquette, outdoor urinal, plants and bars, the Thai restaurant and an indoor water feature.