Sunday, August 29, 2010

Nestled in a river valley near the foothills to the south of bustling inner city Taipei lies a sleepy, quirky little town bypassed by the second half of the 20th century. Sanxia was once a hub for farm produce from this rich agricultural area, but trucks and freeways have left it to fade slowly from its former glories. Unlike many places in Taiwan, however, it means that its “Old Street” has survived the rush to modernization and is now restored and celebrated as a genuine and unique tourist attraction to curious Taipei day-trippers. We were two of those on Saturday and thoroughly enjoyed a little trip back in time to Japanese days of occupation and simple country living.

Sanxia, Yingge and Wulai are all in this general area and each has its own wow factor. Yingge’s pottery, Wulai’s hot springs and waterfalls and Sanxia’s famous temple and restored old buildings, allowing you to stroll a long street looking much as it would have centuries ago. “They” have done a meticulous job on the buildings and pavements: even the stormwater drains are intricately sculpted and individualized! The old facades have been restored or rebuilt and there is a wide variety of products and artisans on display. We saw old ice making and carving techniques, glass blowing and painting, beautiful traditional clothing and wooden ornaments. We wandered the street for a couple of hours, enjoying all the sights it had to offer.

One building housed a small art gallery which was displaying a young artist’s work of excellent quality: we’re quite regretting not buying something from there. The space itself was so beautiful and had been decorated so carefully. Old trunks and records were placed around the rooms, a Japanese room had been set up and period telephones and objet d’art were scattered pleasingly throughout to create a peaceful authentic air. The other incredible place was the Taiwan master wood carving shop. Here, panels had been carved from solid blocks with inconceivable skill. One piece even had tiny wooden ants crawling over pieces of wood: the intricacy had to be seen to be believed, their legs not only individually carved, but articulated!

It was a long day, but very enjoyable. We found some parking nearby and walked in, getting some coffee and a sandwich to fortify us on the way in. As we made our way to the old streets we saw some energetic Christians dancing and singing on a stage. I was praying that the lord didn’t come down and snatch one or two of the faithful right there and then: the heat just walking was bad enough, but extremely energetic dancing in that heat was really unadvisable! Similarly, at the other end of our day, we ventured onto one of the main town bridges which was lined with stalls to celebrate “Sanxia farm produce festival” selling various farm products, many of unidentifiable nature. At the end of the bridge was yet another stage with a captive audience clapping a whole stack of local dignitaries as they were singled out for a bow. The weirdest thing was a young man who decided to make his way to the back of the stage wearing just a pair of skimpy “budgie smugglers”: surely Tony Abbott’s influence hasn’t spread this far?!

On the way home, we dropped into the new SOGO and the incomparable Din Tai Fung for dinner. We had to wait in line for about 10 minutes, but the short wait always repays itself when we start feasting on those xiaolongbaos. If you don’t know it, check out this review of the Sydney branch…it’s one of Taiwan’s best exports we reckon.

The weekend started for me with Gurecki shouting us at the “big brother” with their famous table tapper beers. It was my birthday present, but I hadn’t called in the coupon till then. We had good fun and also through the week, Cass and I went around to visit tiny new born Seth and parents. He was cute, and as his two older sisters got into a screaming fit that didn’t seem to be solvable, I ended up nursing him for ages as Mum sorted out the disagreement!

Another hot week coming up, so no relief in sight just yet.